The Bombay islands were first fortified by the Portuguese, and later by the British East India Company to delineate their respective sovereignties and ward off threats of potential sea-route invasions. In all, 11 forts were built in Mumbai at strategic locations. These were: Worli, Mahim, Bandra, Dharavi (Black Fort), Reeva, Shiv (Sion), Sewree, Majgaon, Dongri, Fort Saint George, and Bombay Fort. Most of them were built in the 17th and 18th centuries but references of Majgaon, Shivdi, Shiv and Mahim are found even in 16th century literature. Dongri, Majgaon and Bombay Fort were completely demolished over time while the rest still hold fort though most of them are dilapidated structures or crumbling ruins. The Shiv Fort is managed by the Archaeological Survey of India while Mahim, Bandra, Black Fort, Shivdi and St. George come under the purview of the state government.
The sturdy Sewree Fort, built on the sea shore to the West of Parel, is in good condition to this day. The other two forts – Majgaon and Dongri - stood on the Majgaon island itself. Yakut Khan of Murud Janjira (Admiral of the Mughal navy, originally Siddi Qasim Khan of East African descent) invaded these three forts way back in 1689. Tucked in the Majgaon Fort, he found ten huge trunks of gold coins, loads of gun powder, and several grand canyons. After collecting the loot, he demolished Majgaon and Dongri forts beyond repair.
The Worli, Bandra and Mahim Forts were unique in every respect. The Bandra Fort still cherishes a few Portuguese stone inscriptions. The Worli Fort was erected to guard against the growing nuisance of sea pirates, which explains its cannon-equipped ramparts. Mahim Fort offered a second layer of protection. Mahim was a pivotal hub given its rich history dating back to the time of Raja Bhimdev (Bhimbashah), who reigned over this area in the 13th century, at a time when Mahim was called Mahikawati.
The Dongri Fort, housing a police station, was atop a hill. It was demolished in 1769 when the police station was moved to the newly constructed Fort Saint. The Dongri Fort hill, later renamed as Navroji Hill, was washed away from the encroaching sea waves. Today, the harbour line passes through the area.
Located near the Dharavi Bus Depot, the Black Fort, also known as the Reeva Fort, was a British watchtower on the southern coast of the Mahim creek. The inscription reveals it was built by Governor John Horne in 1737. That was the year Marathas began efforts to invade the Vasai-Salsette islands. Two years later, they drove out the Portuguese from this marshy land and gained ownership control. Horne probably built the watchtower to guard against the looming threat of Marathas. With no proper entrance, the Fort seems mysterious. One has to walk up a ladder to locate the path on the inner side. This Fort was used to stock gun powder and other war supplies. The lack of entrance was probably to deceive the enemy and take them unawares.
The Shiv Fort, or the Sion Hillock Fort, which stands near today’s Sion railway station, was built during the tenure of Governor Gerald Aungier. To its West, across the creek, was the smaller Reeva Fort mentioned above (whose ruins can be seen even today, in the region to the north of Sion circle.) These twin forts kept vigil over the Mahim creek and served as a border post on the cusp of Bombay and Salsette island. The doors to the Shiv fort were bolted every night at 8 pm, and unlocked in the wee hours to the accompaniment of cannon salutes. Today, the Sion fort has been reduced to a shabby structure of broken steps, shrub growth, and lewd graffiti.
Fort Saint George was built in 1769 (near today’s St. George Hospital at Boribunder) as a cautionary measure to guard against potential French attacks in an era of pronounced British-French conflicts. The walls of this Fort were battered, a signature Portuguese style adopted by the British. The Fort was razed during the tenure of Sir Henry Bartle Frere (1862-1865) and the hospital was constructed on the site sometime between 1889-92.
The Bombay Fort, grandest of them all, was erected by the Portuguese. Garcia de Orta built the Manor House here, which was also known as Casa da Orta. When the British acquired control in 1665, the fort was equipped with cannons on all sides in 1673 as a precautionary measure against the Dutch. Manor House was christened the ‘Bombay Castle’ and made government headquarters. Later, when the government shifted base elsewhere, Bombay Castle became the residence of Governor Aungier. It is pertinent to note that Yakut Khan, who created havoc in Majgaon Fort, could not penetrate the Bombay Fort, thanks to the buttresses built during the tenure of Governor Sir John Child (1681-90.)
Later, during the tenure of Governor Charles Boone, Bazargate, Churchgate and Apollo gate were built to make the city ‘Maratha-invasion’ proof. During 1760-66, the fort walls were raised to ward off French invaders. All three gates were locked at night. Residence in Fort was a status symbol. The Parsi-Gujarati elite class that stayed within the four walls was called “bheetarkotiya” (the in-dwellers) and the rest were mocked as “baharkotiya” (the outsiders) – commoners of areas like Girgaon, Bhuleshwar, Mazagaon, and Byculla (who have now become the modern-day Mumbai in-dwellers)
In 1803, a fire destroyed large parts of the Fort; Governor Duncan led the restoration and repair work. With the passage of time, this magnificient Fort lost its utility and significance, and it was eventually demolished in 1862-1867.
The Fort is no longer in existence today but the name ‘Fort’ has been immortalised. For many quintessential natives, Fort and chosen areas (Pin code 1 to 11) are the real Bombay, the rest are ravenous extensions at best, which ironically include today’s ultra upmarket areas like Parel, Mahalaxmi, Dadar, Worli, Prabhadevi, Mahim, Matunga, Bandra, Ghatkopar, and Chembur besides bustling suburbs like Khar, Santacruz, Vile Parle, Andheri, Goregaon, and Borivali.
Needless to say, the premium housing rates in these localities, equally quintessential, don’t agree with the quintessential natives. That’s another fortified story though!